20th Anniversary Exhibition at the Goldsmiths' Centre
Celebrating its 20th Anniversary this year, Bright New Gems invites you to view a one day only, 20th Anniversary Pop Up Exhibition at the Goldsmiths'Centre, 11am to 4pm, 3 March 2026. As the foremost, industry mentoring programme, supporting the best in emerging talent, this very special exhibition brings together over 50 Bright New Gem alumni for the first time to showcase their most recent works.
This once in a generation exhibition is free to view and features works from an inspirational mix of designers from across the industry - talented new names as well as established designers.
Exhibitors
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Alexandra Jefford - Moillebeau
BNG Alumni 2005
Designer, painter and illustrator, Alexandra Jefford is a talented London-based artist.
Born and raised in Geneva, Alexandra studied fine art at Central St Martins in London concentrating on etching and drawing. She first pursued a career as an artist and illustrator before turning to jewellery in 2002 after studying jewellery design at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), and Gemology at the Gemological Association of Great Britain (GEM-A). Her main approach was to create a more accessible art form while staying true to her roots in fine art.
She was nominated by fashion journalists as an up and coming British Designer for IJL in 2005. Her work has also been exhibited at the White Cube gallery, the PAD London and Paris Art Fairs, Perimeter Gallery in Paris, design Miami Basel at Basel 2011, Louisa Guinness Gallery in London, Roche Court in Wiltshire and GemGenève 2019 and 2021.
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Ana De Costa - Spiritual Henna Tsavorite and cognac diamond asymmetric earrings
BNG Alumni 2006
Purpose
Ana is a true artist; blurring the boundaries between fine jewellery and art and passionately re-defining the way that fine jewellery is designed and worn by women.
The house is a natural extension of Ana’s curiosity about spirituality, travel and culture and is fundamentally her vision for how fine jewellery and objet d’art are designed and created. Each piece begins with a narrative, giving the wearer the opportunity to trigger curiosity and inspire conversation. These narratives are imbued in the pieces and as they are handed down through the generations, from mother to daughter, so are the narratives connected to the pieces. This distinct way of selecting and presenting her inspirational themes has become synonymous with Ana de Costa jewels.
Vision
At the core of the House are Ana’s key values. These are to use exceptional gemstones, to offer outstanding design and champion luxury British Craftsmanship. With these values in mind, Ana demonstrates a refreshing and challenging way of designing and creating fine jewellery. She is happiest making exquisite one of a kind, ‘antiques of the future’ to be cherished, worn and handed down through generations.
“Everything we do is driven by the desire to continue to create meaningful sustainable fine jewellery that will stand the test of time and be cherished.”
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Emma Chapman - Rose Enamel Gold Diamond Ring
BNG Alumni 2006
Emma Chapman uses hand-cut gemstones, precious metals and ancient couture techniques, to create totally unique, regal heirloom treasure for the 21st century. Drawing on old heritage traditions, her jewellery incorporates carving, engraving, enamel, jaali and embossed work. Her signature style is haute-bohemian in flavour, exotic and glamorous. All the jewellery is exquisitely handmade by master goldsmiths and stone –cutters, in her workshops in Jaipur where she lived for 10 years and has been featured in numerous magazines including Vogue, Harpers, Tatler, Elle and Conde Nast Traveller.
Her brand Emma Chapman jewels, is showcased at London Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week at Premiere Classe. Emma Chapman is inspired by and borrows from old couture techniques, to create wearable pieces of jewellery for today. The inspiration is drawn from geometric motifs and patterns, in Islamic, Mughal, Arabic, Byzantine, and sacred vedic architecture and given a modern twist for Western wear.
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Tomasz Donocik - Pleat Fan Ring
BNG Alumni 2006
Award-winning fine jewellery designer Tomasz Donocik creates unique pieces that blur the boundaries between art and jewellery. Born in Poland and raised in Austria, Tomasz now lives and works in London where he founded his eponymous brand in 2008. Tomasz graduated with a BA from Central Saint Martins in London, followed by an MA in Goldsmithing, Silversmithing and Jewellery Making from the Royal College of Art in London. Immersed in these culturally rich surroundings, Tomasz has developed a life-long passion for art, film and literature, which continuously inspire his award-winning designs.
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Laura Bamber - Buckle Pendant
BNG Alumni 2008
Laura Bamber is a London-based jewellery designer and founder of jewellery label Cupio B. She studied Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martins and has worked with established names including Vivienne Westwood, Louis Mariette, and Dinny Hall. After spending 12 years working in brand design, Laura combined her creative and strategic experience to launch her own jewellery label.
Cupio B creates beautiful pieces inspired by the past, designed to be worn with confidence today and passed on to be treasured by future generations. The name Cupio comes from the Latin word meaning to desire or to covet. Drawing on historical symbols and traditions – from Roman artefacts to Celtic craftsmanship – Cupio puts a modern spin on these traditions.
Designed and produced responsibly in London, each piece is intricate, individual, and developed with comfort for the wearer in mind. The result is timeless jewellery with broad, contemporary appeal.
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Sophie Breitmeyer - Top Notch Mint Sapphire Bombe Ring
BNG Alumni 2010
Sophie Breitmeyer creates jewellery designed to be treasured for a lifetime, earning her a reputation as Notting Hill’s modern-day family jeweller. Blending antique silhouettes with contemporary wearability, her designs transcend trends and are made to be passed down through generations. Inspired by the tradition of working with one trusted jeweller, Sophie values strong relationships, shared knowledge and impeccable craftsmanship — principles that define the Sophie Breitmeyer ethos.
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Imogen Belfield
BNG Alumni 2011
Since breaking into the world of fashion and jewellery in 2010, Imogen Belfield's covetable pieces have won the attention from a plethora of super stars including Olivia Colman, Sophie Turner and Beyoncé. Belfield’s jewellery has also been featured in films: Ridley Scott’s ‘The Counsellor’, worn by Cameron Diaz; in television series: Netflix’s ‘The Chilling Adventures of Sabrina’, worn by Tati Gabrielle; music videos: Duran Duran’s ‘Girl Panic’ worn by Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen, Yasmin Le Bon, Cindy Crawford and Eva Herzigova and most recently by Angela Bassett in Marvel’s Black Panther movies. Belfield's designs have further acquired prominent press in Vogue and Harper's Bazaar amongst others. The collections have been snapped up by renowned stockists worldwide including Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges.
Over the years, Imogen has received many accolades including ‘Best in Gold’ at the COUTURE Design Awards and this year she was shortlisted for the Drapers Awards and Accessories Brand of the Year. Most notably she received recognition in the industry by becoming a graduate of the British Fashion Council’s Rock Vault at London Fashion Week curated by Stephen Webster.
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Joanna Bury - Shibusa
BNG Alumni 2014
Joanna Bury is an award-winning British jewellery designer known for her nature-inspired designs and unique concept of jewellery as removable body art. Based in Cornwall, UK, her work often features intricate textures and conceptual themes. Alongside her independent practice, she currently serves as a Senior Product Designer for the sustainable fashion brand Finisterre.
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Daisy Grice - High Contrast
BNG Alumni 2018
Daisy Grice is an award-winning jewellery designer and maker, who designs and crafts her bold, wearable sculptures from her studio situated in the heart of the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter. Taking inspiration from skeletal forms, gothic architecture and otherworldly realms, Daisy’s genderless jewellery boasts a macabre, futuristic aesthetic tempered by timeless elegance. Although fierce in appearance each piece is expertly sculpted with smooth undulating surfaces to not only command attention from every angle, but to invite tactile engagement. Designed to empower. Crafted to last. Daisy’s striking creations are brought to life through the fusion of her traditional bench skills and cutting-edge technology. Committed to sustainability, Daisy works predominately in recycled precious metals complimented by elements of laser sintered matte black nylon. Daisy Grice is an acclaimed alumni of The BCU School of Jewellery and The Goldsmiths Centre London and launched her eponymous brand in 2019.
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Isla Gilham - Nonpareils
BNG Alumni 2019
Isla grew up in Somerset, day dreaming of the tiara her Great Grandfather, George, had handcrafted decades prior; filigree, timelessly beautiful and, most importantly of all, adorned with juicy ‘Jelly Tots’. The sugar coated sweets proudly sat where precious stones usually would.
Almost half a century later, with this treasured family story as her prevailing inspiration, Isla designs her own precious pieces with delicious twists; playing on the tempting and indulgent nature of jewels and gemstones.
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Amber Doughty - Armare studded pearl earrings
BNG Alumni 2021
Amber Doughty is a jeweller based in Glasgow. She is inspired by an array of design movements, with a particular fascination for historical weaponry and armour, and architectural elements. She draws from motifs and shapes found in antiquity, creating pieces that have both historical influences and a contemporary edge. The resulting collection offers wearable art that is both boldly expressive and timelessly refined.
Through her handcrafted jewellery, Amber invites the wearer to connect with history whilst making a contemporary statement, each piece telling a unique story through craftsmanship and design.
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Capucine Huguet - Sendero de Atta
BNG Alumni 2021
CAPUINE H is a Paris-based jewelry artist whose work moves between sculpture and science, instinct and craft. Her collections are living archives of the natural world: shaped by landscapes, inspired by field research, and designed to be worn like rare, personal artefacts.
From the glacial tension of her early work to the layered richness of her latest rainforest collection, her aesthetic keeps evolving, always rooted in deep observation, always driven by curiosity. Her pieces don’t just reflect nature, they carry its complexity: quietly bold, intelligent, and deeply sensual.
Capucine’s creations have been featured in international publications including Forbes, VOGUE and Elle, selected for prestigious awards, and referenced in art history courses. Each piece is designed to hold space across generations, crafted with a level of detail and story that invites lasting connection.
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Hannah Gower - Wing Cluster Earrings
BNG Alumni 2021
Hannah Gower is a Designer Maker based in North Devon. After graduating with a BA(Hons) in Jewellery and Objects from Birmingham School of Jewellery, she set up a home studio to continue her practice. Hannah is inspired by asymmetry, imperfections, and is often influenced by the natural world around her. Most of Hannah’s work is wax carved and cast in Sterling Silver, but she also enjoys the unpredictability of sand casting on of a kind pieces.
Hannah teaches design and technology in a secondary school to pass on the skills she has learnt, and continues to work on her on pieces in her spare time.
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Imogen Burch - 'Crestfallen' Signet Ring
BNG Alumni 2021
Imogen is a London-based fine jewellery designer who completed her studies at Central Saint Martins. Since graduating, she has designed and produced collections of fine jewellery that have been stocked by Dover Street Market and John Lewis. Specialising in fine jewellery and engagement rings, her work is rooted in traditional craftsmanship while questioning how established jewellery forms function in a contemporary context. Through subtle shifts in form and detail, Imogen reinterprets classic pieces to reflect modern values and aesthetics. Her practice balances heritage techniques with a forward-looking design approach, creating jewellery that feels both familiar and quietly subversive.
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Xinyi Chen - King
BNG Alumni 2022
Xinyi Chen is an award-winning designer maker based in Merseyside, repurposing discarded electronic components into jewellery she affectionately calls Artificial Intelligems. Her innovative use of colourful electroplating on silver evokes a joyful response. Exploring the narratives embedded in these digital remnants, her work questions what they reveal about contemporary society and the future.
She has exhibited internationally at prestigious events such as Goldsmiths’ Fair, MAD About Jewelry, TALENTE Handwerk & Design and BKV Prize, and Royal Treasure Museum. Her pieces are in the permanent collections of The Goldsmiths‘ Company, Museum of Arts and Design, and Le Arti Orafe.
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Heather Blake - Neptune Bracelet
BNG Alumni 2023
Heather Blake is a jewellery designer who combines the materials and techniques of shoemaking with goldsmithing and lapidary. Heather has won many awards for her work, including the 2025 GC&DC Award for lapidary. Initially studying and then teaching Fine Art she later studied footwear design at London College of Fashion (LCF) and then the Royal College of Art, graduating with a master’s degree. She then worked in Italy as a footwear developer for Alberta Ferretti, Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni and Charlotte Olympia. She lectured in design at LCF, Northampton University and Polimoda in Italy. Fascinated by metal accessory components, she studied at the British Academy of Jewellery and graduated with an additional master’s degree in jewellery design from Central Saint Martins in 2023.
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Isabella Bedlington - Klara and the Sun Ring
BNG Alumni 2023
Isabella Bedlington is a contemporary jeweller exploring symbolism, time, and human experience through the torus form. Her work is inspired by historical artefacts and the idea of cycles—of time, memory, and transformation—which she expresses through refined forms and intricate gold detailing. She specialises in Keum Boo, an ancient Korean technique of fusing fine gold to silver, creating delicate surface patterns that add depth to each piece. From minimalist to more detailed designs, her jewellery encourages personal connection and reflection—crafted to be worn, lived with, and passed on.
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Richard Farbey - The Label Chain
BNG Alumni 2023
Richard Farbey is a London-based jewellery designer recognized for blending traditional bench skills with modern digital fabrication. He is the co-founder of the jewellery brand Farbey & Myszczynski, which he launched in 2024 alongside collaborator Joshua Myszczynski.
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Estelle Burton - Ex Machina Chandalier Ear Rods
BNG Alumni 2024
Estelle’s research-based design practice is rooted in early memories of her father’s workshop, a place of quiet fascination where scientific instruments were repaired. These formative experiences inform a practice that embraces the potential of the unfamiliar through collaborations with scientists, engineers, and industrial craft specialists. Drawing on skills gained during her career in digital media production, she forges new material and professional connections to intentionally blur the boundaries between mass production and high craft. Working fluidly between factory spaces and her studio in East Sussex, Estelle transforms industrial remnants, found objects, and novel materials into precious jewels for the body.
This collection draws on architectural forms and the legacy of scientific glassmaking in the UK, reimagining industrial craft through a jewellery lens. Responding to ‘jewels’ discovered in unfamiliar factory settings, she fuses reclaimed optical glass waste with traditional jewellery materials. Each piece retains subtle traces of its original function, revealing a tension between precision and exuberance while inviting reflection on the evolving values of contemporary craft.
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Torquil Gordon - Lichen Chain
BNG Alumni 2024
Torquil Gordon is a London-based jewellery designer whose work is deeply inspired by the natural world. A graduate of the Glasgow School of Art, where he studied Jewellery Design and Silversmithing, his practice explores the intersection between high-end and fashion jewellery.
His previous work drew on island and coastal landscapes, particularly the Outer Hebrides, translating their raw and distinctive character into jewellery. Themes of fragility and strength recur throughout his pieces, reflecting the balance found in remote environments, from windswept grasses to rugged coastlines and shifting weather.
His process begins in the landscape, observing and recording through photography, sketching, and film. These impressions are developed in the workshop, where traditional goldsmithing techniques are combined with modern technologies such as 3D printing to translate texture, movement, and form into metal.
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Lengling Bai - Shimmer Ripple
BNG Alumni 2025
Lengling Bai is a jewelry and accessories designer whose practice explores the intersection of sustainable materials, handcraft, and contemporary aesthetics. Her work focuses on large-scale wearable pieces that combine metallic threads with unconventional materials such as paper yarn, using knitting techniques to create fluid, sculptural forms.
Inspired by natural phenomena and subtle emotional states, her project Shimmer Ripple reflects the shimmering movement of light on water, translating softness and strength into tactile jewelry. Through material experimentation and craft-led processes, she seeks to challenge traditional perceptions of jewelry and expand its expressive and spatial possibilities.
Her practice emphasizes sustainability, individuality, and the dialogue between the body and objects, aiming to create accessories that function as both personal adornment and artistic statement.
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Charlotte Hepworth
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Tina Jiao
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Fernando Jorge
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Hanjie Kong
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Eloise Kramer
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Kathy Kraus
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Ruby Lanigan
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Boky Lee
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Ishtar Liljefors
Description goes here -

Annabel Lumb
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Euan McWhirter
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Miguel Luis
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Céline Munisso
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Youjin nam
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Makila Nsika Nkaya
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Holly O'Hanlon
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Emily Richardson
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Hattie Rickards
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Yosef Salih Murad
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Lingjun Sun
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Kiki Tang
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Lulu Tian
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Ruth Tomlinson
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Wen Tseng
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Zeemou Zeng
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Kongzhi Zhao
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Joey Zhong
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Bocen Zhou
The day concludes with a conversation panel Turning Points: 20 Years of New Voices in Jewellery 6pm to 7.30pm. Judge and founder of The Jewellery Editor, Maria Doulton, will talk with three Bright New Gems alumni - Imogen Belfield, Katy Tromans and Makila Nsika - as they reflect on the moments that shaped their careers, exploring the pivotal decisions, challenges, collaborations and opportunities that have defined their journeys from graduation to professional practice. Tickets available from the Goldsmiths’ Centre.
Panel Discussion
Turning Points: 20 Years of New Voices in Jewellery
Panelists
Imogen Belfield
Multi-award winning jewellery designer
Makila Nsika
London-based jewellery designer
Katy Tromans
Senior Lecturer at Birmingham City University’s School of Jewellery
Hosted by
Maria Doulton
Founder of The Jewellery Editor and Bright New Gems judge
Hilary Alexander said:
“Think of emerging jewellery talent and it is almost impossible not to immediately think of Bright New Gems. For nearly two decades, this pioneering platform has championed a new way to identify, mentor and promote the next generation of young stars, poised to dazzle the international jewellery market with their innovative creativity and 21st-century mindsets.”